Page 27 - Vol.39-No.9 issue

CROP PROTECTION

COCOA AFTER ROASTING

PART 2 COCOA BUTTER

FOOD OF THE GODS

fectionery in the world. Cocoa butter is one Cocoa butter, marketed as ‘pure (shell
of very few plant-derived lipids that are free) pressed or extruded natural’ cocoa
solid (fats) at most ambient temperatures. butter, is supplied to the next stage in
Chemically it is a mixture of glycerides of chocolate manufacture. It is supplied in
four fatty acids, which are oleic acid (37%), liquid form via tankers, or in a solidified,
DR. TERRY MABBETT stearic acid (34%), palmitic acid (26%) and moulded form in cardboard boxes.
linoleic acid (2%). Cocoa butter is one of the most stable
Cocoa butter, the high-quality edible fat At a typical ambient temperature of vegetable fats known. It contains anti-
in cocoa beans, has driven the elevation of 15°C, which is normal room temperature oxidant chemicals which inhibit rancidity
cocoa from its ‘Mesoamerica’ roots as a in temperate countries and air-conditioned (oxidation or hydrolysis of the fat) and per-
wild tree to a contemporary status as one rooms, cocoa butter is solid and brittle. At mit a storage life extending for up to five
of the world’s important crop commodi- between 16-36° C the six main crystal years without noticeable rancidity. Some
ties. Amerindians used the roasted seed, forms of cocoa butter melt to achieve com- end users of cocoa butter request a product
ground and mixed with various condiments plete liquefaction just below human body with the pale yellow colour and mild cocoa
including maize flour, chilli and annatto, to temperature. It is these physical properties flavour removed. This is easily achieved
make a drink called xocolatl from which of cocoa butter, which allow consumers by using steam and vacuum extraction,
the word chocolate originates. Xoclatl was to purchase, store and break up chocolate but the antioxidants are removed too with
considered as nourishing and fortifying and at room temperature in a hard and brit- resulting susceptibility to rancidity.
with aphrodisiac properties. But Spanish tle form. Once in the mouth consumers What remains a"er the removal of cocoa
colonisers in the early years of the six- achieve and experience the sensation of butter by pressing or extrusion are cocoa
teenth century described it as foul and smooth liquefaction and the flavours and cakes. These cakes or disks of compressed
loathsome, and they modified the drink aromas thus released. cocoa solids are about 5 cm thick. Pulver-
to make it more acceptable to the European Hydraulic presses can be used to squeeze ising and grinding is used to break up the
palate by replacing locally-used condiments out some of the cocoa butter and leave a cakes into a fine cocoa powder. Each man-
with sugar and cinnamon. residue of cocoa cake having a cocoa butter ufacturer supplies a unique type of powder
Cocoa butter has been described as content of some 22-23 per cent. This is so with distinctive colour, aroma, pH (degree
‘Food of the Gods’ and drinking today’s called ‘high fat’ cocoa powder and used for of acidity) and fat content. The resulting
nearest equivalent to the sixteenth cen- ‘drinking chocolate’. High pressures of more powder, like the cocoa butter referred to
tury Spanish modification it is easy to see than 550-600 kg/square cm are required above, is called ‘natural’.
why. That is ‘Creole Chocolate’, made on to press out the cocoa butter, which is
the Caribbean Island of Trinidad with its subsequently filtered to remove the last
Amerindian and Spanish roots. It is a dark traces of solid cocoa ingredients.
brittle and unrefined chocolate (cocoa Removal of even more cocoa butter to
mass) with a full complement of cocoa produce the so-called ‘low-fat’ or ‘defat-
butter and flavoured with cinnamon. A ted’ cocoa powder (10-11 per cent cocoa
slab of the chocolate is boiled in water butter and used for flavouring the baking
and sweetened with condensed milk. The and confectionery industries), requires ap-
resulting ‘instant’ chocolate drink is rich plication of the ‘screw-expeller’ extrusion
and spicy with yellow globules of melted process.
cocoa butter floating on the surface of the
steaming liquid. If anything tastes like ‘Food Almost all cocoa butter in ‘low-fat’ cake
of the Gods’ then this is it. can be can be removed by solvent extrac-
tion. But there are tight restrictions on the
In its natural and unaltered state, co- use of solvent extracted cocoa butter,
coa butter has a mild chocolate flavour especially from whole beans, in the food
pale-yellow in colour and valued for its industry. Not least is that cocoa butter
unique melting properties. Cocoa butter is which is solvent extracted from whole
widely sought a"er, not only for the man- beans will contain some ‘shell butter’ and
ufacture of chocolate but also for use in which di!ers appreciably from so-called
the cosmetics and the toiletries industry.
‘nib butter’. Solvent–extracted butter is
The melting point profile of cocoa butter usually de-odorised which renders it bland Ripe cocoa pods filled with beans and
full of fat called cocoa butter
underpins the whole existence of chocolate and colourless. Most is destined for non- (Picture courtesy Omex)
as the most widely eaten and enjoyed con- food industries.

Vol. 39 No. 9 25
Circle 36 on enquiry card